We all are in business to make money but without doing anything making money it's just not fair.
Commercial Cooking Equipment Repairs: The client's convection oven had issues with the fan motor, causing uneven cooking. I repaired the motor, ensuring consistent heat distribution and cooking performance.
Commercial Food Warmer Repair. Faced with diminished heating performance attributed to dust accumulation on the condenser coils, I undertook a comprehensive cleaning and restoration process. This meticulous service involved disassembling the unit, clearing dust and debris from the coils, and reassembling the components with care. The outcome not only addressed the existing issue but also restored optimal heating efficiency, ensuring the food warmer operated at its peak capacity for consistent and efficient performance.
checked Fryer unit, pulled top of solenoid coil and removed wire nuts. put in cycle and tested voltage at coil. had 24.6 volts. unit heated for awhile then gave E92 error. called henny penny mark said is solenoid valve. pull apart and clean. told him it's leaking grease from stem and valve body at bottom of stem. he suggested to replace. gave me part number for replacement part. unit is operational but not in pressure menu. requires part. unit can be pulled from line and taken to back. Amanda wants part Q.W.P. 10/22/20 Removed old valve and replaced with new one. tested for leaks while cooking. ran unit thru a pressure cook and got no errors ,no leaks present. unit is operational job complete.
checked oven, opened panel, noticed that the ignition blower motor is not running - checked voltage to motor, not getting 120v to motor. Called Middleby, was on hold for 20 min or more, spoke to Dennis to help me with troubleshooting. He had me check voltage to control terminal L2 to air switch getting 119v and per Dennis it's a bad air switch.. will order through shop and return unit not in service. 8/23/19 put in new pressure switch unit still did not heat up call the manufacturer twice two different texts keep telling me it's the pressure switches both Motors in the back are running both pressure switches are good because I checked them I blew through them lightly and they both have continuity but I am not getting any voltage to the ignition motor or coming out of the Transformer I blew through the lines of the blower motors in the back to see if they were clogged up but they're not I have exhausted my options will return with a more experienced technician next time unit still not
Checked out proofer. bottom portion is proofer. customer had product in on arrival. waited til completed. customer has pan of water on bottom of proofer so can use. found that fan motor spins inside cavity. removed back panel. have 214 volts to unit. have 2.5 amp draw on each leg of elements. removed water line from humidity valve. have water into valve. removed cover inside cavity to get at water nozzle. checked have no clogs. checked and have voltage into solenoid valve but not letting water through. unit needs new valve. got part number. Will order through shop and return. unit is in service. 3/13/19 arrived on site to repair Duke Proofer. accessed rear of unit. removed rear panel and proceeded to replace water solenoid valve. replaced valve. brought proofer into operation. allowed unit to preheat temperature of 105°. initiated proof cycle at 80% for 1 hour. checked for water leaks - none present. allowed proofer to operate for a period of time ensuring proper operation. proofer in
Unit cuts out to reset with both compartments running. Not kicking out on low water. Called Groen and spoke to Gabe who thinks its relay. Also, drain box is leaking. Cavity hoses will need replacing. Will order parts. 3/24/17 Returned and replaced drain box. Had to take flu cover and flu back off unit to get to hoses. Replaced cavity hoses. Relay sent was different brand than what was in unit. Had to figure out where wires went. Ran unit up to steam . Unit cuts out when you use both compartments. Took video of it. Going to send to Groen. 4/3/17 Tried jumping pressure switch. No change. Called Groen and spoke to Steve White. He said remove probes and see if hole in baffle is open on each probe section. Poked a pick in them. Reassembled and tried unit. Ran 4 cycles with both compartments on. Unit did not kick out. Needs deliming. Drain valve does not work. Maintenance is going to work on it.
Disassembled and installed new cord set. Replaced wire nuts and re taped. Tested to make sure unit works (heats). They found other unit in back hallway. Need to obtain strain relief for new cord.
Tested and found both pilot out. Tried to light but they would not, Removed a pilot line and depressed safety. Smelled no gas. Found relief plug on regulator blocked with grease. Removed and lit pilots. Heated grill up. Unblocked grease and burnt off with torch. Little ball moves freely now. Put back in and tested. Grill works. If it happens again the 3/4 regulator valve should be replaced.
WELLS- DROP IN HOT WELL Tech - Found wire connector burned off at element connector. Cut back wire and crimped on new connector. Reassembled. Unit now heats.