Andrew arrived on time and was courteous and thorough in explaining the work that was needed on our a/c unit. The a/c is working much better now thanks to his fix!
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The service by X-Treme is always performed professionally and done properly.
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Good job, prompt and informed.
Response from X-Treme Temp Heating & Cooling, LLC:
We are so grateful for your 5-star review. Thanks for sharing your rating with us and the community.
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Andrew was a wonderful young man. He was most courteous and very helpful in explaining what was needed to be done on the boiler.
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Courteous technician fixed our unit quickly. Great price.
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The technician was friendly and professional answered all my questions. The answering personal working the phones are also wonderful. Would highly recommend
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Performed heating maintenance on hydro air handler and gas water heater Brushed and vacuumed burner for the water heater Inspected and vacuumed burner, blower compartments and surrounding area Checked electrical connections and safeties Checked gas pressure Performed combustion test Flushed water heater to remove sediment Replaced air filter
Customer turned the thermostat on and the condenser just hummed. Found the capacitor was bad. Replaced the capacitor, started and checked the pressures. System is operating properly.
Upon arrival unit was off. Checked air filter and it was good. Checked condenser coil and found it was dirty. When the condenser coil is dirty it traps the heat and causes the pressure and temps of the refrigerant to act higher than they really are. Washed the condenser coil to remove the dirt buildup. Checked wiring in the condenser electrical compartment and at the compressor. Found a mouse nest in the compressor jacket. Removed the jacket and the mouse nest. Did not see any damaged or chewed up wires. Checked the condenser for any traces of Uv dye and did not find any. Started and tested the system and found the unit was slightly low on refrigerant. The manufacturer states the unit should have 11* subcooling +/- 3* and the unit was bouncing between 7-9. After getting customer authorization we added 9 oz R410A to the system bringing the subcooling up to 13.6* which is acceptable. Had a 17.5* temp difference between the supply and return before adding the refrigerant and 21* differenc
Performed an A/C pm on (2) systems. Blew out the drain line, replaced the air filter on the 2nd fl, 1st fl was clean. (Customer supplied) Checked and tested the condensate pump. Rinsed the condenser. Checked the electrical connections, checked the pressures and temps. On the 2nd condenser, replaced the suction side schrader due to not seating fully after checking the charge. System is operating properly.
Upon arrival unit was on but the thermostat was satisfied. Turned thermostat down and both indoor and outdoor units turned on. Checked the evap coil and the air filter and both were clean. Checked refrigerant levels and found the liquid pressure was very high. Found the condenser coil was very dirty. When the condenser coil is dirty it raises the refrigerant temp and pressure, also making it harder for the unit to cool properly. After getting customer authorization we chemically cleaned the condenser coil. After cleaning the coil we found the unit was slightly low on refrigerant. The manufacturer calls for a subcooling of 7* at 85* outside but the unit was only at 3* subcooling. After getting customer authorization we added 7 oz R410A to the system bringing the subcooling up to 9. Unit is working properly. Had 10* temp split when arriving and 17* split when leaving.
The thermostat was blank. Checked the air handler, found a little bit of water in the pan which tripped the overflow switch. Reset the switch and vacuumed the water from the pan. Checked the pressures, the 2nd fl system is low on refrigerant. Added 1 lb 7 oz R-410a to the system. 59* supply air, 77* return air. System is operating properly
Performed A/C pm on (2) Ductless Heat Pump systems. Washed the filters. Checked the drains. Rinsed the condenser coils. Checked the electrical connections and safety’s. Tested both units in high heat and cooling. Small unit, heating- 122*, cooling- 57* Large unit, heating-107*, cooling-64*. With it not heating and cooling properly, it is an indication that it is low on refrigerant. Added 8oz R410a to the system. The large unit is operating properly. The blower wheel on the small unit is dirty. Recommend having the small indoor unit cleaned to help with airflow.
Upon arrival unit was turned off. Customer stated the drain line was clogged and the secondary pan was filling up with water. Upon inspection we found the drain line was badly clogged. Purged the line with nitrogen and then flushed it with hot water with a small amount of evap coil cleaner chemicals. Had water pouring out outside with little to no obstruction. Vacuumed out the secondary drain pan and inspected the evap coil. Started the system and checked the refrigerant levels. Pressures were good and unit had 10* subcooling which is acceptable. Unit is working properly
Performed routine maintenance on a 4-ton central AC system. Cleaned condenser coil, inspected the capacitor, flushed the drain line, and tightened electrical connections. Found compressor amperage running high, so we’ll recheck next visit. Advised client to keep landscaping trimmed around outdoor unit to prevent debris buildup and overheating. System is currently operating within normal specs.
Upon arrival unit was on but not running. Turned thermostat up. The unit started to light but a couple seconds after the flame came on it put the flame out. Inspected the flame sensor and found it was very corroded and starting to get thin in some places causing it to not sense the flame. Went to a supply house to get a new flame sensor. Removed the old flame sensor and installed the new one. Also found the air filter was plugged and covered in dog hair. Replaced the air filter with a company supplied one. Started and tested the unit. Unit is working properly.
Installed a new Bradford White electric water heater for a homeowner. Removed the old leaking unit, installed the new tank, and connected the water supply and electrical lines. Checked the pressure relief valve, filled the tank, and tested for proper operation. Ensured the homeowner had consistent hot water before completing the job.
Inspected interior of boiler and checked door gaskets Cleaned the condensate trap and filled it with clean water Checked all boiler piping for leaks and corrosion Checked flue pipe and air piping Checked system pressure and controls Inspected and cleaned ignition electrode Checked all boiler wiring connections and safeties Started and tested the system
Upon arrival unit was on but not running. Temp in the house was 73 and the thermostat was set to 71. Turned temp up to 76 and unit started up with no issue. Cycled unit on and off multiple times with no issues. Checked all radiators and all of them were getting hot. Compared the thermostat temp to a temp probe and found the thermostat is reading 3 degrees warmer than the indoor temp is. Most thermostats have a 3* temperature variance. The thermostat may be starting to go bad. Adjusted the hi and low limits on the boiler aquastat so the burner will run for longer periods of time. Unit is working properly.
Brushed and vacuumed flue pipe and heat exchanger Replaced oil filter, nozzle, and strainer Checked all electrical connections and safeties Performed combustion and smoke tests 7.8%o2 48ppm co 0 smoke When arriving unit was off on reset. Pushed reset button and furnace lit right away. Checked oil flow and had good flow. Checked the igniter and saw the spark was an orange/yellow color indicating it is getting weak. After getting customer authorization we replaced the igniter. Started and tested unit. Unit is working properly.
Upon arrival unit was on but not running. Ran hot water and the water heater turned on with no issue. Checked oil flow and had ok flow. Checked the nozzle and found it was dripping with oil on the end cone and in the blast tube. Replaced the nozzle and started the water heater. We found when the furnace turned on while the water heater was running the water heater would turn off. Upon further investigation we found the oil filter by the wall was starting to get dirty and restricting the oil flow. Since the furnace is closest to the filter the majority of the oil was flowing to the furnace and making the water heater turn off. Replaced the oil filter and bled the oil line. Also removed the oil filter from the filter canister by the water heater because the oil filter at the wall is rated for 2 appliances. Started and tested the water heater by itself and when the furnace was running as well. Unit is working properly.