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Straight to the point. Found the problem quicker than I expected and solved. My unit was up and running in less than an hour.
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Nothing but great experiences with Larry and the Xtreme Temp team! Responsive, knowledgeable experts with fair rates / costs. Highly recommended!
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Larry and team installed a new boiler for us, they’ve competed several jobs over the years for us, they are always extremely professional, efficient, tidy and always take the time to explain the work. We will continue to trust Larry and his team for any future needs.
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He did an excellent job. Was down there for over two hours took everything apart and cleaned everything thoroughly. Very satisfied with the service..
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he did sooo good! he was very thorough with his work! thanks !
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Polite. Professional. Wonderful job. Would highly recommend this company
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Couldn’t be happier with the guys at Xtreme. Top notch service at an affordable price. They show you and explain everything in great detail. Highly recommend.
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Andrew was kind and knowledgeable. Highly recommend.
Response from X-Treme Temp Heating & Cooling, LLC:
Thank you so much for this 5-star review. We really appreciate you being a customer and helping to share the word about us. We’re here for you anytime.
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Customer turned the system on. Checked the pressures. The suction side was at 24 psi. The system is low on refrigerant. Customer wanted to add the refrigerant to the system. Added 2 lb R22, and brought the pressure up to 43 psi. Due to the system not fully charged, the system may not properly and possibly freeze the coil.
Checked the system. The blower was running on the furnace. Checked the condenser for power. There was 24 volts to the contactor but it was not pulled in. Checked the pressures. The system was off on low pressure. There as 1.8psi in the system. The customer wanted to add refrigerant to the system to get it going then they will replace it. Added 7 lb 8 oz R410a to the system. System is cooling properly at this time but does need to get replaced due to a leak.
Performed an A/C pm. Blew out the drain line, customer the air filter. Rinsed the condenser. Checked the electrical connections, checked the pressures and temps. Added 11 oz R410a to the system. System is operating properly.
Visually inspected indoor evap coil and blower compartment Checked all electrical connections and safeties Checked volts and amps Visually inspected air filter Rinsed condenser coil Blew out drain line and poured water to ensure properly draining Tested condensate pump Checked refrigerant levels Checked capacitor Took temps While performing the maintenance we found a mouse nest inside the electrical compartment. Removed the dead mouse and the nest. Inspected all electrical wiring and found multiple high and low voltage wires that were damaged. Cut out and removed damaged wires and installed new terminal connections.
Upon arrival both thermostats were off. Checked the air filter and found it was very dirty and was restricting air flow. Checked the coil and it was still clean. Replaced the air filter with a new one. Tested both zones individually on fan and cooling mode and tested them at the same time to check operation of zone dampers in the attic. Both zone dampers were opening and closing as they should. Unit is working properly. Had 54* supply air with 70* return air
Visually inspected indoor evap coil and blower compartment Checked all electrical connections and safeties Checked volts and amps Visually inspected air filter Rinsed condenser coil Blew out drain line and poured water to ensure properly draining Tested condensate pump Checked refrigerant levels Checked capacitor Took temps
When arrived the condenser fan motor was not spinning. Turned the disconnect off. Chemically cleaned the evaporator coil again in case there was dirty trapped in the middle. After cleaning, checked the differential across the coil - .02. The evaporator coil is clean. Replaced the condenser fan motor and capacitor. Started and tested. There is a 19* temperature difference across the coil again the system is cooling properly.
The burner was off on reset when arrived. Reset the control and the motor started with a loud whining noise. Removed the burner and found the burner coupling end on the motor side was stripped. Replaced the coupling end. Started and checked the operation.
The burner for the water heater was off on reset. Reset the control and there was just a buzzing sound from the burner, the motor did not spin. Removed the fuel pump and the shaft was seized. Freed the fuel pump shaft. The burner started, while it was running, the flame stopped several times due to air in the line. Checked the bolt for the oil filter canister. Found the bleeder screw on the canister was loose and allowing air to get into the line. Tightened the screw and the system is operating properly. In the future, the fuel pump shaft may seize again. Recommend replacing the fuel pump. Recommend having both the furnace and water heater serviced.
Performed an A/C pm. Blew out the drain line, replaced the air filter at the air handler. 20x20x1 Chemically washed the condenser. Checked the electrical connections, checked the pressures and temps. System is operating properly. On start up of the condenser, the fan motor did not start on the initial start. Moved the blades and it eventually started spinning. There was resistance in the motor. The capacitor is reading correctly and the amps are under the max rating. The motor was possibly seized due to being inactive during the winter months. It is spinning freely at this time. The motor may need to be replaced in the future.
While performing the maintenance we found the temps the units were putting out were slightly lower than typical. Checked refrigerant levels and saw the system was slightly low. Added 10 oz R410 to the system. Recommend reevaluating the levels next year. Washed condenser coil Checked all electrical connections and safeties Blew out drain lines and poured water to ensure proper draining Tested all heads in high heat and cool Checked volts and amps Visually inspected evap coils, blower compartments and filters. Washed all filters with water. All heads were putting out 114-120 degree air in high heat mode and were putting out 45-50 degree air in high cool mode. Unit are operating properly
Upon arrival customer stated the outdoor fan was not spinning and last year he had to occasionally turn it manually to get it to spin. Checked the capacitor and found it was good. Tried spinning the fan motor and found it was completely seized. After getting customer authorization we replaced the fan motor with a rescue motor and replaced the 7.5 capacitor. Checked the capacitor for the compressor and found when it should have been reading 35 it was reading 22 which is well outside of manufacturers specifications. After getting customer authorization we replaced the 35/7.5 capacitor. Started and tested the unit for proper operation.
Visually inspected indoor evap coil and blower compartment Checked all electrical connections and safeties Checked volts and amps Visually inspected air filter Rinsed condenser coil Blew out drain line and poured water to ensure properly draining Tested condensate pump Checked capacitor Attempted to do an a/c pm. While doing the pm we found the compressor was not starting up and the fan motor was not spinning. Checked the capacitor and found it was in great condition. Gave the fan blade a push and the fan started up indicating there is a dead spot on the fan motor. Checked the windings of the compressor by ohming them out and found the windings are getting very weak and is not allowing the compressor to start. Windings were reading 2.5, 3.6, and 1.7. Attempted to put a hard start to get the compressor running and it still would not start. Need to replace the compressor. Also found the refrigerant line connections were soldered instead of brazed. R410A connections are only suppose
Customer called in reporting poor cooling. I found the system low on R-410A due to a small leak at the suction line Schrader valve. Replaced the valve core, pulled a vacuum, and recharged the system. Verified proper superheat and subcooling readings. The home had poor airflow last summer—this should solve it for good.
Today I performed a full spring HVAC tune-up on a two-story home with a 5-year-old system. Checked refrigerant levels, cleaned the evaporator coil, tightened electrical connections, and verified proper thermostat function. The blower motor was slightly over-amping, so I noted it for future monitoring. Everything is now running smoothly in preparation for the warmer weather.