Overall Experience
Quality
Price
Convenience
Overall Experience
Quality
Price
Convenience
Overall Experience
Quality
Price
Convenience
Installed customer supplied kholer toilet
Cleared main line clog via cleanout access. Performed camera inspection down stream and noticed customer had a large obstruction coming up from bottom of sewer line approximately 20’ down stream under the street. Due to the issue being located under the street we recommend digging up existing clesnout and performing descaling and hydrojetting to the line in order to remove obstruction. Once obstruction is removed we can then perform epoxy lining down stream to prevent any further issues Shot epoxy liner from cleanout out towards city sewer and re instated existing tie in
Performed leak detection and found customers cold water line coming from half bathroom/bar sink feeding kitchen sink was leaking under foundation. Due to customer having a leak previously on this line and having a leak on the line that feeds from the kitchen sink to refrigerator that has since been capped off, i recommended performing a re route of both lines. Explained to customer that since we has an island sink we can attempt to feed a 3/8 line through the existing soft copper that runs from the fridge to the sink and connect the feed to the faucet to the 3/8 line. Doing this will avoid having to saw cut and jackhammer approximately 15’ of concrete in order to run a new line. If we are unable to feed the 3/8 line through the copper than we will need to perform the jackhammering. Explained to customer I will send over two estimates. One for performing the re-route and feeding the PEX line inside of the existing copper over to sink, and the other estimate for performing the re route
Cleared main line clog via cleanout access. Performed camera inspection down stream and noticed customer had a large obstruction coming up from bottom of sewer line approximately 20’ down stream under the street. Due to the issue being located under the street we recommend digging up existing clesnout and performing descaling and hydrojetting to the line in order to remove obstruction. Once obstruction is removed we can then perform epoxy lining down stream to prevent any further issues
Dug 6ft down into sewer line, installed two 4" risers for cleanout and 2 garden boxes. Backfilled and replaced grass as best as possible.
The sink on the left was clogged, removed p-trap, snaked the line and ran water for 5 minutes to make sure everything was cleared. Everything was cleared and running smoothly. The sink on the right has a small leak coming from the hot water handle. Recommend replacing the faucet on the right.
Located customers sewer main via cleanout in front yard. Located transition from 3” to 4” near curb at a depth of approximately 6’. Recommended installation of double clesnout. One to allow for installation of rag stopper and the other to allow for future service of upstream sewer main.
Performed leak detection to customers hot water lines. Opened drywall behind washer machine, under water heater and under right vanity sink to expose manifolds to perform testing. It appears leak is located on hot 1/2” copper line that feeds the washer machine. Due to the other end of the manifold being located in an inaccessible area I was able to confirm for certain that this line was the line that was leaking. There is a slight chance that it could be the 3/4” copper line that feeds the master bathroom. Explained that we will have to remove water heater in order to gain access to the hot manifold and cap off lines to be certain which line is leaking. Will send customers two estimates. One estimate for if the leak is on the half inch line feeding the washer. And a separate estimate for if the leak is on then3/4” line feeding the master bathroom After removal of water heater to gain access to manifold I was able to perform more test and determined the leak was actually located on
Performed leak detection to customers hot water lines. Opened drywall behind washer machine, under water heater and under right vanity sink to expose manifolds to perform testing. It appears leak is located on hot 1/2” copper line that feeds the washer machine. Due to the other end of the manifold being located in an inaccessible area I was able to confirm for certain that this line was the line that was leaking. There is a slight chance that it could be the 3/4” copper line that feeds the master bathroom. Explained that we will have to remove water heater in order to gain access to the hot manifold and cap off lines to be certain which line is leaking. Will send customers two estimates. One estimate for if the leak is on the half inch line feeding the washer. And a separate estimate for if the leak is on then3/4” line feeding the master bathroom
Installed new laundry box, supply lines for washer as well as dryer vent. Was unable to hook up washer and drier due to customer having the flooring being replaced. Also installed new master bathroom faucet. Angle stop on cold side and supply line
Replaced customers 3/4 pressure regulator as well as 3 1/2 hose bibs. Adjusted customers pressure to approximately 68psi
Removed old garbage disposal and replace with customer supplied garbage disposal.
Performed electronic leak detection and line tracing. After running several test I was able to determine that customers burst water line was on the 3/4” copper manifold located behind water heater where it goes into the concrete and runs under the AC unit located in the closet. In order to perform a direct access repair to this line we would need to disconnect and remove the AC unit, remove the base of the closet and then jackhammer up the concrete, there is also a good chance that we would need to remove toilet and jackhammer up a small section of flooring in order to get adequate access to the damaged pipe. Instead of having to go through the cost of removal and re installation of the AC unit and the possibility of having to install new tiled flooring we highly recommend performing a re-route of the line. Performing a re route will be a more cost effective and a permanent fix to the issue. After performing further test we determined the line that had bust was the 3/4” hot line go
Performed a visual inspection on customers plumbing to include stub outs for water and drains for sinks and toilets, as well as water heater. Did not see any active leaks, but saw that several of customers P trap assemblies for bathroom and kitchen sink where in properly plumbed in, also noticed customers cold flex line feeding water heater had severe corrosion occurring. Highly recommend replacing this flex line with a new one as well as removal of old gate valve and installation of new gate valve
Performed electronic leak detection and line tracing. After running several test I was able to determine that customers burst water line was on the 3/4” copper manifold located behind toilet where it goes into the concrete and runs under the AC unit located in the closet. In order to perform a direct access repair to this line we would need to disconnect and remove the AC unit, remove the base of the closet and then jackhammer up the concrete, there is also a good chance that we would need to remove toilet and jackhammer up a small section of flooring in order to get adequate access to the damaged pipe. Instead of having to go through the cost of removal and re installation of the AC unit and the possibility of having to install new tiled flooring we highly recommend performing a re-route of the line. Performing a re route will be a more cost effective and a permanent fix to the issue.