The existing electric water heater had been leaked on causing it to smoke, spark, and rust. We removed the old water heater and installed a new electric water heater with a mixing valve. The kitchen faucet was also leaking when used and the water traveled down the cabinet and onto the floor in front of the sink. To,remedy this we installed a new delta faucet. Everything is operational at this time,e with no leaks detected
This was a follow up visit to test the drainage connections within the home since the new septic was completed. The water for the second floor bathroom was turned on and the fixtures were tested. -Tested the kitchen sink faucet to properly test the newly installed cartridge and drainage connections -Tested the first floor lavatory drainage. Noticed a leak on the popup assembly. Tightened the plastic nut to secure the rubber gasket to the bottom of the lavatory. Tested, no leaks. There was no work performed on the popup assembly during this project -Tested the laundry drainage and the water softener drywell drain receptacle by using a washer hose to introduce water to the drains with. -All drainage was tested and no leaks were present. -The exterior drywell drain was not connected by the septic contractors during this visit, so I was unable to place the water softener into service.
-Installed a 2” pvc drain through the home’s foundation for a dedicated dry well drain for the existing water softener. An excavation company is in the process of digging the trench for the drywell. The 2” pipe has been piped through the concrete frost wall. The excavation company is going to connect to the pipe and extend it to the connection to the drywell. A drain receptacle was installed within the house, which features a check valve, air admittance valve, ptrap and air gap fitting. During a follow up visit the softener will be placed into service and a regeneration cycle. This follow up visit will be completed once the exterior piping is complete -Repaired the leaking 3” pvc drainage stack in the main floor bathroom. There was a dry fitted 3” sanitary t that connects the vent and the second floor drainage. The water from the vent was causing the fitting to leak. This connection has been replaced.
The home’s plumbing system shows signs of wear, including an aging pressure tank, water heater, and a leaking kitchen faucet. We propose replacing the 20-gallon well pressure tank, water heater, whole house sediment filter, rebuilding the Moen kitchen faucet and repiping the building drain to restore reliable water flow, improve efficiency, and prevent future leaks or failures. 11/19 -Disconnected, removed and disposed of the water heater. -Cut the drainage stack above the floor to provide a space for the concrete contractors to cut the concrete -The contractors cut and removed a 3’x2’ rectangle -We are disposing of the concrete -The 4” pvc drainage is visible in the area of concrete that was removed -The concrete saw had cut through some of the pvc fittings that receive the waste from the first floor shower and toilet. These fittings will be replaced. -Will return to remove the pvc fittings and dig through the soil to gain access to the frost wall to prepare for core drilling. 11
I am a home service technician, and I recently completed a plumbing job at a residence. The bathtub and lavatory drains were found to be slow due to buildup restricting flow. We attempted to clear the lines using Thrift drain cleaner, but when no improvement was observed, we removed the lavatory trap and used an electric snake to clear a large hair blockage. The trap was reinstalled and the drain was tested, confirming proper flow with no restrictions. For the bathtub, Thrift treatment also produced no improvement, so we removed the trip lever assembly and snaked the overflow line, removing a significant hair blockage. After reinstalling the overflow, the tub was tested and drainage was fully restored. We also found the lavatory’s chrome P-trap leaking due to prior attempts by homeowner to clear the blockage. We recommended replacing it with a new plastic tubular P-trap to provide a reliable, properly sealed connection. The new trap, tailpiece, and chrome bell cover were installed and
Water was turned off at the curb stop using the designated wrench, and the yard hydrant was opened to relieve system pressure. The hydrant head was removed using Free-All to free rust-seized components. The head assembly and plunger rod were taken out, and the end gasket was replaced using the customer-supplied part. The rod was reinstalled, and a new hydrant head with all new components was installed using thread sealant on all threaded connections. The water was restored and the hydrant was tested, confirming proper operation with no leaks at this time.
For this call, we shut off the water at the curb stop to the residence and yard hydrant and isolated the line for hydrant removal. After relocating a large rock for safety, we excavated around the existing yard hydrant to a depth of approximately five feet. The hydrant was found to be connected to a galvanized nipple embedded in a concrete slab, with no drainage stone installed around the weep hole. We installed a new yard hydrant, connected it to the existing water line, and added proper drainage stone around the weep hole. The stone was covered with silt fabric, and the excavation was backfilled in 6-inch compacted lifts. The new hydrant was tested and is operating correctly with full pressure and no leaks at this time. The ground was raked and leveled, and grass seed was applied; however, due to the season and temperature, germination is not expected. A bag of grass seed and a bale of hay were left with the homeowner for reseeding in the spring.
Installed heat check valve on indirect water heater zone due to heat zones bleeding into the zone and over heating it. Verified operation and system is working properly at this time.
Upon inspection, the customer reported that while insulating the piping, a staple had punctured the 3/8” PEX supply line. Although the customer had the zone shut off, the line continued to drip. With the customer’s approval, I replaced the damaged section with a new piece of PEX and installed two couplings. I also added two hangers to properly support the piping. I then purged the zone; the radiant system contained a significant amount of air, but I was able to remove as much as possible. The system’s air vent should clear the remaining air. At this time, the system is operating as expected.
Looked at replacing boiler and water heater
The front room was not connected to the home’s radiant heating system, resulting in uneven warmth. We will extended the radiant manifold and piping into the front room to improve comfort and ensure consistent heating throughout the space. Added 1 250 feet loop and one 100 foot loop. Set radiant temp to 110. Purged new piping out and confirmed proper operation.
Arrived onsite to perform an annual tune-up on a propane boiler. The boiler is 35 years old and has a noisy inducer fan. We have discussed replacing the boiler in the past, and quotes were previously provided. I answered their questions about the quotes and discussed financing options. They requested updated quotes for the boiler, and I also updated the quote for the inducer fan and emailed it to them.
Performed annual maintenance on the Trio oil boiler. Replaced the oil nozzle, fuel filter, and pump strainer. Brushed and vacuumed the heat exchanger and flue pipe. Tested and confirmed the operation of all system safety controls. Verified proper function of all burner components. Conducted combustion, smoke, and draft tests. During testing, found that the pressure relief valve did not reseal properly. With customer approval, replaced the boiler’s pressure relief valve. Purged air from the system and confirmed that all heating zones are circulating water properly. Noted that the previously installed nozzle size did not match the manufacturer’s specifications, resulting in off-spec combustion readings. Installed the factory-recommended nozzle and rechecked combustion. Confirmed proper combustion performance and safe operating levels. System is operating properly at this time.
Looked at installing Rinnai direct vent heater
Found newly installed radiant to have air in the loop causing the boiler to be locked out on no flow. Purged zone and boiler was heating