A screw through a heat pipe equals a bad leak. Jerm’s service was prompt and professionally handled the situation
Overall Experience
Quality
Price
Convenience
Neat , professional, and proper part available to make repair. Will use again.
Overall Experience
Quality
Price
Convenience
Arrived onsite to investigate insufficient heat on a Viessmann propane boiler. The boiler had gone out on an F4 error code (no flame signal present). The customer reported that the boiler required a reset approximately every other day, although it was operating upon our arrival. We shut the boiler down and attempted to restart it. The unit did not ignite on the first attempt but successfully lit on the second. We inspected the igniter and flame sensor and it was dirty. The igniter and flame sensor were replaced, and proper operation was verified. The system is now running normally with no issues at this time. The customer was advised to contact us if the problem reoccurs. Estimates were emailed to the customer to perform an annual tune-up and a water heater flush.
Arrived on site for a report of no heat on the first floor and in the living room, along with a loud chattering noise coming from the zone control board. Inspection showed the control board was experiencing fluctuating power. Whenever any of the Nest thermostats called for heat, zones 3 and 4 would intermittently lose their call, which was consistent and repeatable. After extensive wire tracing, I identified all zone valves, zone separations, thermostat locations, and their corresponding zones. Based on system behavior and testing, my current hypothesis is that the system is experiencing an intermittent zone control board failure, compounded by three Nest thermostats operating on two-wire configurations. These thermostats appear to be drawing excessive power, causing voltage instability and disrupting calls from other zones. Further diagnostics and discussion of a long-term solution will be required, and a return visit is necessary. At this time, I confirmed proper operation of the f
Arrived onsite to investigate a no-heat issue on a Buderus propane boiler. Upon arrival, the boiler was up to temperature. All thermostats were turned up; after a short delay, the zones came on, ran for a few minutes, shut off, and then restarted. I inspected all wiring in the Taco switching relay and found it to be in good condition. I also checked all settings on the Buderus control board and verified they were correct. While inspecting the indirect water heater temperature sensor, I found it was not fully seated in the well. I properly seated the sensor and secured it, the sensor could’ve caused the heat to not work as hot water takes priority. Verified operation, system is working properly at this time.
This site visit was scheduled to evaluate and provide an estimate to install an automatic shutoff valve for the house. This house appears to have two pressure tanks which would indicate two wells. The pressure tank in the crawl space is showing its age based on its condition. There is currently a solenoid valve installed on the outlet of the pressure, which may be an automatic shutoff valve. Could not locate a dedicated breaker for this solenoid valve. Estimates for the shutoff valves and pressure tank will be emailed. I arrived late to the appointment, the homeowner dedicated several minutes to provide me a tour and also to help answer some questions before departing before I was completed. I turned off the lights in the rooms that I was in, closed the front door behind me and left it unlocked with the understanding that the homeowner has the ability to lock it remotely.
A one-cubic-foot water softener was installed at this location and tied in after the existing filtration system. All necessary plumbing connections were completed, and the system was thoroughly tested to confirm proper operation with no leaks present. A new drain connection was cut into the 3-inch main drain stack to properly accommodate the softener discharge. The regeneration cycle was programmed to run every 14 days at 2:00 AM. Upon completion, the system was placed into service and tested, and it was confirmed to be operating correctly. It is recommended that this unit receive annual maintenance to ensure continued high-level performance, and we also recommend returning in a couple of weeks to verify that the softening system is effectively removing all grains of hardness.
The homeowner reported issues with the waste and overflow assembly not operating correctly. Upon evaluation, the trip lever was found to be malfunctioning and was replaced to restore proper operation. After replacement, the drain was tested and found to be functioning, though drainage was observed to be slightly slow. We offered to use drain-clearing chemicals to improve flow; however, the homeowner elected to address this themselves.
We found mildew buildup on the evaporator coil inside the heat pump water heater, caused by a lack of routine cleaning. We recommended a full coil cleaning to restore proper operation and improve system efficiency and air quality. • Disconnected power to the hybrid water heater at both the breaker and the external disconnect, then removed the top cover of the unit. • Applied coil cleaner to the evaporator coil to break down mildew buildup, then scrubbed remaining deposits with a brush for a deeper clean. • Rinsed the coil with warm water to remove all residue and placed a drain pan tablet to help reduce future mildew growth. • Tested the condensate drain line and confirmed proper flow with no blockages. • Reinstalled the top cover and restored power to the unit. After restarting, the unit displayed an error code indicating a clogged condensate line. I explained to the homeowner that this occurred because the drain pan sensor was temporarily activated by water used during cleaning
Arrived on site to diagnose no hot water after new install. We found that the temporary water supply line we piped to the boiler when the water heater originally failed was allowing cold water to cross with the hot causing lukewarm water at the fixtures. Closed the valve and now we are getting sufficient hot water at all fixtures. This valve is okay to stay closed as the boiler is still being fed water. Water heater is operating properly.
Arrived on site to replace failed water heater. We started by turning off gas supply. We then removed the old tank and installed the new one. We installed a mixing valve which will help with efficiency. We set it to 4.5 on the dial which is around 120 degrees. Gas valve is set to B which is about 140 degrees to prevent legionnaires. We installed new ball valves on both the hot and cold water lines coming off of the water heater. We hooked the fan back up to the gas valve. Hooked up the gas line using the existing flexible copper line. We also installed new venting up to the tee by the chimney. Once tank was set and fully installed, we turned water and gas back on to check for leaks. No leaks present. Purged hot and cold lines of air. System is operating properly and you should have hot water in an hour or so. Thank you for your business!
I arrived at the customer's home to inspect a leaking boiler. Upon inspection, I found that the water heater was also leaking heavily from the top near the vent. The water heater had failed and needed to be replaced. I provided an estimate for the replacement and also found that the expansion tank and boiler relief valve had failed, causing the leak at the boiler. The boiler was from 1979 and should be replaced, but I provided an estimate to get it back up and running. The customer accepted the estimate. I drained the boiler and removed the expansion tank/relief valve. I installed the new parts and piped the relief in a way that it was not sitting horizontally, allowing debris to get stuck in it. I filled the boiler and purged all three zones. I ran each zone to confirm they were heating properly. I also performed a combustion analysis and checked for CO to verify the system was safe to use. Thank you for your business, and I look forward to working with you to replace your water hea
Looked at replacing boiler and possibly heat pump air to water
The customer reported that their mini-split was heating properly but would shut off for approximately 10 minutes while the indicator light blinked before resuming operation. I explained that this is normal winter operation, as the outdoor unit periodically enters a defrost cycle. I tested the discharge air temperature and confirmed that the mini-split is heating as expected. I also verified that the unit is correctly entering defrost mode. All components of the system are operating as they should at this time.
