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Alex was a true professional and was very clear in describing our AC issue. He came out to the house at 11 pm on a Saturday night and was able to solve the problem efficiently. He also thoroughly explained all my options pertaining to fixing the problem, which was greatly appreciated.
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Clarence was knowledgeable and incredibly helpful. He quickly diagnosed our issues and got them fixed just as quickly. Very friendly and professional service!
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Install blow out valve for free with coil replacement.
Upon arrival, I found that the outdoor unit was not turning on. I search the diagnostic section of the thermostat and found an odd older code. It had to do with liquid refrigerant returning to the compressor. I inspect the old filter. It was pretty dirty, but it wasn’t awful. Customer stated he changed it today. I inspected the evaporator coil and recommended doing a minor cleaning on it. I power cycled the unit. Once I rebooted, it began to cool normally. I checked the charge and amps to find the system is cooling well.
I arrived at our clients home for a a cooling maintenance inspection. Our client had mentioned to me water dripping from the secondary drain line as well as the Unimed having high humidity. I proceeded to visually inspect the attic unit before going outside. Once outside I tested and checked all the electrical components for the system. I also rinsed the outdoor coil from the pet hair and debris that it had collected. Tom was outside and was surprised to see how much hair had collected. Once rinsed off I continued to test the system. I found the contactor to be near failure reading 19.3 Out of 20 ohms. The compressor motor also exceeded manufacture limits. Reaching 128 amps out of 104. I discussed my finding with Tom and went inside to the indoor AirHandler. There I tested the temperature drop and looked into the water that was draining from the secondary pan. I found that the air handler had water collected on the inside cabinet insulation. The water is dripping from here and not t
I arrived to the unit being unresponsive. Our client informed me that they had tried to run the system in heat and it was unresponsive. They later attempted to run the unit in cooling and could not get it to come on and cool. They have not had recent power outages either. I proceeded to turn on the downstairs thermostat and verified the attic unit was on and running. I proceeded to visually inspect the filter and it could be replaced. I then went outside and checked the refrigerant pressures. The unit was on and cooling. Everything was testing with range except for the dual run capacitor. I replaced this part under parts and labor warranty. I proceeded to measure the temperature drop and was getting 20°. The primary drain line did have water collected in it and I found the float switch to also have water on it. I discussed how the float switch is meant to shut the unit off or not allow it to turn on if water has backed up in the drain line. Our client elected to have me clear the drai
Found a loose set screw in the blower wheel. This was not tightened enough for the last time I was out to perform the blower wheel cleaning. Removed blower wheel and tightened the set screw. After tightening tested blower amps a temp split. Everything was within range and performing normally.
Customer said it was working great and then it suddenly stopped cooling completely. I checked outside first to see if the capacitor was bad. I was not getting 24v outside. I proceeded to go inside and find that the float switch was tripped due to a clog. The drain goes under the slab. I blew the drain out with nitrogen and flushed with hot water then followed it with a little bit of drain treatment. Drain is operational. I had a slick substance in the float switch, but I think it was just a slime residue. System is cooling properly.
Tested all electrical components on outside unit, amps and capacitor rating for the fan and compressor motors. I did notice the fan side of the capacitor to be testing on the low side but is still operating. Inside I noticed the emergency drain pan to have rust and possible penetration through the bottom side of it. Provided estimate for duct cleaning, turbo200x capacitor, blower wheel cleaning and emergency drain pan replacement. Client had no filters for us to replace at this time. Upon departure unit is cooling.
1. Visually inspected condenser coil for debris/ dirty. 2. Inspected condenser fan motor. 3. Inspected condenser fan blades. 4. Inspected/ cleaned wiring connections. 5. Tested compressor/ condenser fan motor capacitor. 6. Checked compressor amp draw. 7. Checked condenser fan motor amp draw. 8. Inspected / replaced return filter. 9. Inspected return plenum for debris/ dirty. 10. Inspected evaporator coil. 11. Inspected blower motor/ blower wheel. Very dirty drywall dust 12. Checked blower amp draw. 13. Measured temperature differential from supply to return. 20 degrees measured. 14. Inspected drain lines and treated to prevent blockages 15. Washed condenser unit to promote heat exchange Cleaned blower wheel with chemicals
Preformed 3 system plus mini split maintenance. Checked amps, capacitors, filters, drains and temperature differential. Rinsed outside units and mini split. Washed mini split filters. We are proposing surge protectors to be added to each of three units and a no rinse cleaning of the mini split evaporator coil.
Scope of Work: -Coordinate with manufacturer to process and obtain replacement coil under parts warranty. -Remove and dispose of the existing evaporator coil. -Install new OEM Trane evaporator coil as per manufacturer specifications. -Recharge refrigerant as needed. -Pressure test and verify system integrity. -Perform system start-up and check for proper operation. Refrigerant: -This estimate includes 4 pounds of R-410A refrigerant. -Actual refrigerant usage may vary depending on how much refrigerant is still in the system. -Any additional refrigerant required will be billed accordingly at the time of service. Notes: -Parts are covered under the manufacturer’s warranty; estimate reflects labor, refrigerant, and associated materials only. -Warranty does not cover labor, refrigerant recovery/recharge, or other incidental costs. -Any unforeseen issues or additional repairs required during installation will be communicated prior to proceeding. Includes Our Care Club Membership! Joining
Upon arrival, I found the outdoor unit in lockout. I reset the outdoor unit and determined the system was low on 410a. I performed a complimentary leak search and found the leak in the evaporator coil. I had the office run the warranty and the website show that it is expired. The customer presented paperwork showing that it is registered with a 10year warranty. We will reach out to Trane tomorrow to investigate. I took pictures of the paper work and the warranty number. We will present a price for repair once warranty is verified and price is built.
R38 insulation is a high-quality thermal insulation material designed to increase energy efficiency in homes and buildings. Our R49 is 14" of Owens Corning R-49 Pink Fiberglass Insulation. - Assessment: We will first assess your property to determine the areas that need insulation and calculate the required amount of R38 insulation. - Current insulation depth: - Preparation: We'll ensure the work area is properly prepared, addressing ventilation and safety concerns as always. - Installation: R38 insulation will be carefully installed in the designated areas, using industry-standard techniques to maximize thermal resistance. Cleanup: After installation, we'll clean up the work area thoroughly, leaving it in pristine condition.
Performed cooling safety check. I checked amps, capacitor, electrical, drains, safeties, cleanliness, filters, temperature differential, and refrigerant temperature. The system is cooling well but the efficiency is being affected. I observed numerous issues. When the equipment was sold, the plenums were not included. This system needs new plenums because they are too small. This is resulting in a high static pressure and making the system seals come apart. High static pressure is a major issue and will result in a major system failure sooner. The system currently has an opening in supply side. This is causing the unit to cool the attic and may produce condensation. With past history, I recommended an additional float switch for more safety against potential water damage associated with the drains. The outdoor unit is missing pipe insulation on the suction line. This directly reduces efficiency making it cost more to run the unit. I observed some burn marks on the defrost board outdoor,
Homeowner stated that the unit wasn’t working properly,, that it wasn’t shutting off after meeting indoor temperature set on thermostat,, We set thermostat on cooling (72 degrees,, permanent hold),, noticed unit wouldn’t shut off, inspected outdoor unit, refrigerant pressures tested OK,,went back to thermostat, pulled off from the base, reseted it , tested by changing the temperature, thermostat was working properly, found no more issues at this time. Thermostat was still calibrating itself, homeowner will monitor and will call us if there is any issues.
Arrived to our clients home to review buyers inspection report. Our client showed me the report and we discussed highlighted items. I proceeded into the attic and ensured the furnace cabinet safety switch was not “disabled” it is working and operating properly. The secondary drain pan had been sealed with flex seal to prevent future water damage to the metal pan. The pan has zero evidence of rust penetration. There is no evidence of odor or smell in the unit or home.