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Alex was a true professional and was very clear in describing our AC issue. He came out to the house at 11 pm on a Saturday night and was able to solve the problem efficiently. He also thoroughly explained all my options pertaining to fixing the problem, which was greatly appreciated.
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Clarence was knowledgeable and incredibly helpful. He quickly diagnosed our issues and got them fixed just as quickly. Very friendly and professional service!
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1. Visually inspected condenser coil for debris/ dirty. 2. Inspected condenser fan motor. 3. Inspected condenser fan blades. 4. Inspected/ cleaned wiring connections. 5. Tested compressor/ condenser fan motor capacitor. 6. Checked compressor amp draw. 7. Checked condenser fan motor amp draw. 8. Inspected / replaced return filter. 9. Inspected return plenum for debris/ dirty. 10. Inspected evaporator coil. 11. Inspected blower motor/ blower wheel. 12. Checked blower amp draw. 13. Measured temperature differential from supply to return. 20 degrees measured. 14. Inspected drain lines and treated to prevent blockages 15. Rinsed condenser unit to promote heat exchange 16. Replaced and dated filters Capacitor testing 64.96/70. Advised homeowner capacitor is testing outside manufacturer specs and recommended replacement avoid system failure. Homeowner elected to let it be for now and keep an eye on it.
Preformed 1 system cooling maintenance. Met homeowner outside, he had no concerns at the time of arrival. Proceeded inside garage for attic access, tested all electrical components inside all tested within manufacture specifications. Changed filter 20x25x1. I noticed the client does not have a primary safety float switch and blow out valve. Left estimates for each. Client did not want to go forward with at this time. Treated primary drain line with total c. Proceeded outside to check all electrical components, start and run amps of the fan and compressor motor. All electrical components tested within manufacture specifications. Run and start amps tested within manufacture specifications. Rinsed out door coils Temp drop across the inside coils is 20 degrees 74 coming in 54 coming out. Unit was cooling upon departure.
Performed work for replacing blower motor under warranty. Motor started up without issue. Tested refrigerant pressures and found them to be within range. Rinsed condenser as a courtesy to ensure proper heat exchange. Unit in good working order upon departure.
Arrived on Site, powered unit on test. Unit would shut off very quickly after starting. I measured pressures, and found high superheat and low suction pressure. Tested contactor and capacitor both were testing within range. Start amps and run amps tested within range. Proceeding to the furnace I found the blower motor was not running. Tested power coming into the motor and found power making in to the motor. Measured resistance on the motor and found no resistance. Informed homeowner that we would need to order the motor first thing in the morning as the supply houses are closed right now and we would contact them tomorrow morning with more information as to when we could have this motor installed for them. Collected $200 deposit in order to get this motor on it way and process the warranty paperwork. Condenser breaker left off in order to avoid damage to the unit.
Customer stated that unit stop producing cold air yesterday or the day before, so they shut off the unit. Upon arrival I checked standing pressure on unit and it appeared to be low. Tested capacitor and contactor both were testing within range. Proceding to the attic unit, I found the drain line to be draining sufficiently and the float switch not triggered. Upon inspecting further I noticed I could hear hissing coming from the evaporator. I then conducted a leak test and didn’t not find any leaks around the TXV or connections with a bubble test. On my leak detector I was immediately getting hits of refrigerant around the bottom left side of coil. Discussed with customer that the coil was in stock but our install team would not be available until Saturday morning. Offered window unit to hold them over until we could come out to repair the leak and home owner accepted. 26907505 Order number Trane McKinney in stock
1. Visually inspected condenser coil for debris/ dirty. 2. Inspected condenser fan motor. 3. Inspected condenser fan blades. 4. Inspected/ cleaned wiring connections. 5. Tested compressor/ condenser fan motor capacitor. 6. Checked compressor amp draw. 7. Checked condenser fan motor amp draw. 8. Inspected / replaced return filter. 9. Inspected return plenum for debris/ dirty. 10. Inspected evaporator coil. 11. Inspected blower motor/ blower wheel. 12. Checked blower amp draw. 13. Measured temperature differential from supply to return. 20 degrees measured. 14. Inspected drain lines and treated to prevent blockages 15. Rinsed condenser unit to promote heat exchange Customer stated that room farthest from the unit was getting too warm. Noted there were two exterior walls to this room; one of which is facing west. Made minor airflow adjustments to grills to attempt to push more air to the back side of house.
I returned to our clients home to preform a quality control check on the evaporator coil. I measured the temperature drop inside the attic unit and also checked refrigerant pressures. Everything passed and is running perfectly. I also took time to talk with Tom and discussed how we can improve in our services. We will update and send a final invoice and he would like to explore financing options for work that was preformed. The unit is cooling properly on departure.
Install blow out valve for free with coil replacement.
Upon arrival, I found that the outdoor unit was not turning on. I search the diagnostic section of the thermostat and found an odd older code. It had to do with liquid refrigerant returning to the compressor. I inspect the old filter. It was pretty dirty, but it wasn’t awful. Customer stated he changed it today. I inspected the evaporator coil and recommended doing a minor cleaning on it. I power cycled the unit. Once I rebooted, it began to cool normally. I checked the charge and amps to find the system is cooling well.
I arrived at our clients home for a a cooling maintenance inspection. Our client had mentioned to me water dripping from the secondary drain line as well as the Unimed having high humidity. I proceeded to visually inspect the attic unit before going outside. Once outside I tested and checked all the electrical components for the system. I also rinsed the outdoor coil from the pet hair and debris that it had collected. Tom was outside and was surprised to see how much hair had collected. Once rinsed off I continued to test the system. I found the contactor to be near failure reading 19.3 Out of 20 ohms. The compressor motor also exceeded manufacture limits. Reaching 128 amps out of 104. I discussed my finding with Tom and went inside to the indoor AirHandler. There I tested the temperature drop and looked into the water that was draining from the secondary pan. I found that the air handler had water collected on the inside cabinet insulation. The water is dripping from here and not t
I arrived to the unit being unresponsive. Our client informed me that they had tried to run the system in heat and it was unresponsive. They later attempted to run the unit in cooling and could not get it to come on and cool. They have not had recent power outages either. I proceeded to turn on the downstairs thermostat and verified the attic unit was on and running. I proceeded to visually inspect the filter and it could be replaced. I then went outside and checked the refrigerant pressures. The unit was on and cooling. Everything was testing with range except for the dual run capacitor. I replaced this part under parts and labor warranty. I proceeded to measure the temperature drop and was getting 20°. The primary drain line did have water collected in it and I found the float switch to also have water on it. I discussed how the float switch is meant to shut the unit off or not allow it to turn on if water has backed up in the drain line. Our client elected to have me clear the drai
Found a loose set screw in the blower wheel. This was not tightened enough for the last time I was out to perform the blower wheel cleaning. Removed blower wheel and tightened the set screw. After tightening tested blower amps a temp split. Everything was within range and performing normally.
Customer said it was working great and then it suddenly stopped cooling completely. I checked outside first to see if the capacitor was bad. I was not getting 24v outside. I proceeded to go inside and find that the float switch was tripped due to a clog. The drain goes under the slab. I blew the drain out with nitrogen and flushed with hot water then followed it with a little bit of drain treatment. Drain is operational. I had a slick substance in the float switch, but I think it was just a slime residue. System is cooling properly.
Tested all electrical components on outside unit, amps and capacitor rating for the fan and compressor motors. I did notice the fan side of the capacitor to be testing on the low side but is still operating. Inside I noticed the emergency drain pan to have rust and possible penetration through the bottom side of it. Provided estimate for duct cleaning, turbo200x capacitor, blower wheel cleaning and emergency drain pan replacement. Client had no filters for us to replace at this time. Upon departure unit is cooling.