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Couldn't have asked for anything better. Charles was on time, honest, respectful, clean, worked quickly and accurately. Awesome service.
Overall Experience
Quality
Price
Convenience
Sprayed adhesive spray to interior insulation on the top side of blower motor housing. Taped and seal existing Armaflex insulation on suction line copper where it was entirely exposed within the attic up to where it meets the wall on both units. I possibly believe that it is possibly split open entirely where it goes through the wall. On this return trip, found water in the pan on both unit due to the condensation dripping from the exposed suction line. Asked homeowner when last time filter was installed and was unaware. Due to no filter in systems there could be large buildup of debris on evaporator coil…can verify if management company/homeowner authorizes, complete diagnostics. Both units require: 20x20x4 air filters (customer requested) these filters not on service truck Water removal from emergency drain pans Up to 6”PVC extension at primary tee and pvc caps or level 3 bundle Insulation on primary drains up to 6’ Condenser coil wash Full AC check on entire system….refrigeran
Found low Voltage control wire disconnected at outdoor condenser. Billed homeowner for reconnecting wire. Found system running without a filter. Blower motor access door was not screwed in or sealed properly. Had to remove a screw that held the Plenum to the furnace door housing so that the door could be sealed flush properly after diagnostics. Cooling draining properly again at this time but minor repairs needed. Sent estimate for repairs to be made by adding adhesive spray/tape to secure inner liner of insulation blower motor housing. As well as Arma flex to be sealed/taped on the Copper on 6 feet where it meets evaporator coil housing.
Inspection and evaluation of ductwork project Homeowner Converting downstairs front bedroom closet into an office, removing a wall and combining it with another closet in the hallway. Install: COMPLETE RETURN CUT IN - (1 Bag) 8" Ductwork R6 - (1) 8/8/6 Wye Connector - Cut in and install new return/6” non insulated boot & Grill - saddle and hanging strap - Includes up to 22ft length run. - Air Seal Install: Supply Ductwork - (1 Bag) 6” Ductwork R6 - (1) 8/8/6 Wye Connector - Saddle under ductwork - Hanging Strap to support -(1) 6” Insulated Supply Air Boot & Grill - Includes up to 22ft length run. - Air Seal - (1) 5” splice collar (existing 5 inch supply, possibly for the bathroom had a pretty decent size hole in it at the chase)
Upon arrival, I found the breaker for the outdoor unit. I checked the compressor to ground and I ohmed it out. I inspected the wires for the compressor and found no exposed wire. I took a start amp reading and it it pulling 137 amps on start up before it trips. I unwired the compressor to see if the condenser fan motor would work. It did in fact work. I installed a hard start kit and got the start amps to 98amps, but it still tripped. I swapped the main breaker at the the panel to test if the breaker was bad. It still tripped, and this allowed me to determine that the compressor is bad. We will need to reach out to century in the morning to get an ETA for the compressor.
Arrived at clients house, client stated unit stopped cooling around midnight. Client changed filter. Indoor fan was on and running but no cool air was present. We proceeded outside and found that the capacitor was dead and not allowing the compressor to start. Offered Tubro200X and generic capacitor replacements. Client decided to have neighbor replace the capacitor.
1. Visually inspected condenser coil for debris/ dirty. 2. Inspected condenser fan motor. 3. Inspected condenser fan blades. 4. Inspected/ cleaned wiring connections. 5. Tested compressor/ condenser fan motor capacitor. 6. Checked compressor amp draw. 7. Checked condenser fan motor amp draw. 8. Inspected / replaced return filter. 9. Inspected return plenum for debris/ dirty. 10. Inspected evaporator coil. 11. Inspected blower motor/ blower wheel. 12. Checked blower amp draw. 13. Measured temperature differential from supply to return. 20 degrees measured. 14. Inspected drain lines and treated to prevent blockages 15. Washed condenser unit to promote heat exchange System
I performed a single system cooling maintenance on a 2020 gas carrier system. I checked amps, capacitor, filter, electrical, drains, and cleanliness. The system could use some duct cleaning and blower cleaning. Dust build up can cause the compressor to fail, evaporator coil to leak, and the blower motor to go out. The system currently only has an emergency pan float switch and with the current drain configuration is basically useless. I propose that a in line float and a blow out valve. These items will allow the detection of clogging to be faster and allow the homeowner to clear it. The capacitor was beginning to read weak and I offered a replacement under warranty and a turbo200. The customer approve the turbo200. I installed it and tested the unit for proper operation. 5 year warranty TURBO200 MULTI USE CAPACITOR 2.5-67.5 MFD 370 - 440V SIMILAR TO A BATTERY, CAPACITORS HELP START MOTORS BY STORING CURRENT. A DAMAGED CAPACITOR CAN DAMAGE THE MOTOR IF NOT SERVICED. REGULAR MAIN
Performed 3 system cooling maintenance. Systems are from 2016 and are gas. Basement unit is hardly used. I checked amps, capacitors, filters, electrical, drains, cleanliness, and safeties. The systems are performing well with some needed protections and cleanings. The main unit and master bedroom units have some build up in the duct work that could lead to excessive dust build up on the internal parts: blower motor and evaporator coil. This could cause damage to the evaporator coil, blower motor, and compressor. The units do not have surge protection. The units are 2016 with a possible 1 year left of warranty. The compressor needs to be protected due to EPA guidelines that would lead to system replacement if failure occurs.
Performed single system cooling maintenance on a 2021 zoned gas system. I checked amps, capacitor, filter, electrical, drains, cleanliness, rinsed the unit, and safeties. The system overall is cooling well with some needed recommendations. The indoor unit has an air leak causing water to accumulate in the emergency drain pan. This can lead to the pan rusting and forming a water leak hazard. The primary drain line does not have a float switch or blow out valve. This serve as a protector against water damage associated with drain line clogs and allows it to be cleared by the home owner. The outdoor unit has a capacitor that is just under its specification rating. I recommend replacement of the capacitor before it fully fails leaving the home owner in the heat. The compressor is pulling high amps upon start up. If the amps continue to go up, there may be irreversible internal damage done to the compressor. Also, it was o served that the unit currently does not have any surge protection. S
I returned to our clients home to install the replacement defrost control board. I first undid the bypass I had left over night. I then was able to properly replace the board. Once replaced I asked our client to turn on the thermostat to cool and ensured the unit was running properly before leaving. I also showed our client pictures of potential entry point that rodents use to get into the unit and we discussed using copper wool to help reduce rodent activity.
I arrived at our clients home for the main unit not cooling properly. Our client said it was working fine but when they returned home it was not coming on outside. I proceeded outside and began testing the equipment. I found evidence that rodents had compromised the low voltage wires for the outdoor unit. I did some further testing and found the outdoor control board to be compromised. It was not sending the correct power to the contactor. I contacted Trane and they informed me the system is no longer under warranty. The board is in stock and we will pick it up tomorrow and return to complete the full repair. Our client elected to have me bypass the board as a temporary fix today and turn on the air conditioning only. I also covered some of the compromised spot of the wire inside the heat pump. The unit is cooling on departure.
I arrived at our clients home for the downstairs unit not cooling properly. Our client noticed the unit was on inside but not keeping the set temperature on the thermostat. I proceeded into the attic and verified the unit was on and sending the signal for the outdoor unit. I proceeded outside and began testing the equipment. I found the capacitor to be failed and I found the thermostat wires to the high pressure switch to be chewed up by a rodent. I showed my findings to our client and we discussed repair options. They elected to bypass the pressure switch as a temporary fix but understand a pressure switch is needed to protect the compressor from overheating and high pressures. They also elected to replace the capacitor today. Once repairs were made and wires secured I tested the system to ensure it was cooling properly. I did rinse the downstairs unit to also reduce stress from the over system performance. I did send an estimate for a replacement high pressure switch and also indo
1. Visually inspected condenser coil for debris/ dirty. 2. Inspected condenser fan motor. 3. Inspected condenser fan blades. 4. Inspected/ cleaned wiring connections. 5. Tested compressor/ condenser fan motor capacitor. 6. Checked compressor amp draw. 7. Checked condenser fan motor amp draw. 8. Inspected / replaced return filter. 9. Inspected return plenum for debris/ dirty. 10. Inspected evaporator coil. 11. Inspected blower motor/ blower wheel. 12. Checked blower amp draw. 13. Measured temperature differential from supply to return. 13-14 degrees measured. Lower than expected 14. Inspected drain lines and treated to prevent blockages 15. Washed condenser unit to promote heat exchange Low temp split. Took refrigerant pressures and found everything to be normal. 4T unit cooling 2350 sqft. Undersized unit may be causing temp split and txv missing jacket.
Performed a 3 system spring maintenance ( heat pump). Tasks performed. 1. Visually inspected condenser coil for debris/ dirty. 2. Inspected condenser fan motor. 3. Inspected condenser fan blades. 4. Inspected/ cleaned wiring connections. 5. Tested compressor/ condenser fan motor capacitor. 6. Checked refrigerant pressures. 7. Checked compressor amp draw. 8. Checked condenser fan motor amp draw. 9. Inspected / replaced return filter. 10. Inspected return plenum for debris/ dirty. 11. Inspected evaporator coil. 12. Inspected blower motor/ blower wheel,,,north/ south side of the house units are very dusty recommended a blower cleaning,,,there’s an older unit that cools/ heats the upstairs,, it’s not working properly , homeowner is aware and he’s ok with it not working properly,, he said he never uses it. 13. Checked blower amp draw. 14. Measured temperature differential . 15. Inspected drain lines. 16. Washed condenser unit.
I installed new Honeywell damper motors to the upstairs and downstairs zones. Tested them multiple times to ensure that they were closing fully when not calling for cooling. I confirmed that both dampers are opening all the way when it is calling for cooling. The zones are performing properly.