2nd tech to work on HVAC outage, was fixed however a bit of rainwater in the shorted the system. Quick service! Charles explained the remaining issue, which sounds as if it would have been hard to diagnose prior to the rain storm. Thank you!
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ALEX IS AMAZING! HE ARRIVED ON TIME, WAS EFFICIENT, KNOWLEDGABLE AND THOROUGH. HE WENT OUT OF HIS WAY TO PROVIDE EXCELLENT CUSTOMER SERVICE IN REPLACING DUCTS IN MY ATTIC, EXPLAINING EVERYTHING. AND EVEN HELPED ME CONTAIN THE RODENT PROBLEM THAT WAS RESPONSIBLE FOR THE PREVIOUS DUCT DAMAGE SINCE I WAS UNABLE TO CLIMB THE ATTIC LADDER MYSELF. HE WENT ABOVE AND BEYOND MY EXPECTATIONS. WHEN I HAVE ADDITIONAL DUCTWORK DONE -- HE WOULD BE MY CHOICE FOR A TECH. ALEX DESERVES A BIG RAISE!!! THANK YOU!
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Overall Experience
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Overall Experience
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He was there 10 minutes ahead of schedule and had us back up and running very quickly!
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Overall Experience
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Price
Convenience
Overall Experience
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Convenience
Arrived t9 home for mini split leaking water on downstairs head in office. Client has lived in the home for 2 years and has not had it serviced. He turned it on and immediately it began dripping water from the opposite side of the drain port. We turned it off an I could immediately see the unit had excessive debris and dust accumulated on it. I believe the unit to have multiple issue caused from it being dirty. The coil was potentially freezing over and the drain line was clogged due to the excessive debris it was trying to push out. We discussed different option to clean the unit and join our maintenance plan. Our client elected to only clean the unit today. I took the unit part. Cleaned and serviced it and reassembled the unit. Once cleaned and assembled we tested the unit. It did not drip any water and it began cooling properly.
Preformed cooling maintenance. Upon arrival we tested start, run amps for the compressor and fan motors. All tested within manufactured specifications. Tested the contactor it did ohm out at the high side but still test within the manufacture specifications. Upon further inspection we did find that the ducts, plenums, blower wheel and condenser coils could benefit from a cleaning. Offered estimates for each cleaning. Unit was cooling upon departure.
Preformed cooling maintenance. Tested all electrical components on the inside and outdoor units. Tested start amps and run amps for the compressor and fan motors. All tested within manufacture specifications. Treated drain line with total c. Replaced filter with another Aprilaire 210 filter customer provided. Noticed the unit didn’t have surge protection, with recent events that caused a power outage we provided client with options to add surge protection for the unit inside and out. Upon departure unit was in working order.
I returned to our clients house due to noise concern coming from the indoor closet unit. They could hear the motor struggling to start up and noisy when shutting down. I proceeded to turn the unit on and off with our client there and could not replicate the noise. We discussed how the initial diagnostic required me to disconnect and discharge the power and may have reset the motor. But due to the demand overnight the motor was near complete failure and thus causing the noise. Our clients elected to proactively replace the motor today and not wait until it failed completely. Once the motor was replaced I tested it to ensure the unit was cooling properly and no abnormal noise was heard. The unit was cooling on departure.
Return to clogged drain line and float switch engaged. This was not allowing the unit to come on and cool. I redid the primary drain line to have more significant slope for drainage and also added a T to allow the client to service the drain line as well. Before departure the float switch engaged again but I ensured the primary was free by pouring more there than 64oz of water. I then relocated the float switch in line to only engage if the primary drain line gets clogged. The unit is cooling on departure.
I arrived at our clients home for the indoor unit not coming on or cooling properly. Our client had previously called another service company and they had diagnosed a failed indoor blower motor. I spoke with our client regarding the overall system and immediately found refrigerant residue in the closet unit line set. I showed this to our client and we discussed how this is a clear sign of refrigerant leaking out of the unit. I proceeded to test the indoor motor and it came on. I then proceeded outside and tested the outdoor heat pump. I tested all the electrical components and found the contactor to be very charred. The contactor may have been engaged and sending signal for the compressor to run without calling for the indoor equipment to run. Today everything was responding. I was able to also check the refrigerant pressures and did confirm the unit is low. The unit hold the old R22 refrigerant. I also checked temps tires and was only getting. 13/14° temperature drop. I showed al
Arrived on site, it was initially noted that the seal around the coil was very poor. We then opened up coil found rag inside of interior coil pan blocking drain line outlets. Removed rag and line was still clogged. Inside the unit the insulation for the coil box was falling off obstructing the coil. Due to 1/2 inch pvc used on the unit we needed to acquire the couplings necessary to rebuild drain line and clear the clog. Upon return to the house we performed the drain line rebuild and cleared the clog. We partially sealed the coil back with tape only as we found it. Customer stated she would consider fixing this in the future. At this point we were able to start the unit and measured a 15 degree split. Unit in working order upon departure
Upon arrival, I found the unit blowing hot air with the liquid line being scalding hot. I immediately went outside and found the outdoor unit exhausting extremely hot air. This indicated that the outdoor unit was too dirty and cycling heat back into the house. I rinsed the outdoor unit and got the unit to have a 10 degree temperature drop. The refrigerant pressure do not look awful, but they are jumping around with a higher than normal subcool. I proceeded to go back inside and found the entire indoor unit is filthy. I performed a sweat check on the evaporator coil because I suspected the evaporator coil to be internally plugged. With some of the tubes not seating and the others are sweating, I can confirm the evaporator coil is restricted. Due to the change of refrigerant as of January 1st of 2025, we can no longer replace the evaporator coil once the warranty expires. The unit is from 2013. Even if it was registered, it would only have warranty until 2023. The system needs to be comp
Performed a 2 system spring maintenance ( heat pump). Tasks performed. 1. Visually inspected condenser coil for debris/ dirty. 2. Inspected condenser fan motor. 3. Inspected condenser fan blades. 4. Inspected/ cleaned wiring connections. 5. Tested compressor/ condenser fan motor capacitor,,,noticed both units don’t have surge protection,, talked to customer about installing them,, he will think about it. 6. Checked refrigerant pressures. 7. Checked compressor amp draw. 8. Checked condenser fan motor amp draw. 9. Inspected / replaced return filter. 10. Inspected return plenum for debris/ dirty. 11. Inspected evaporator coil,,,evaporator is dirt,, highly recommended an evaporator coil cleaning. 12. Inspected blower motor/ blower wheel,,,there’s buildup around the wiring, and blower wheel,, highly recommended a blower cleaning. 13. Checked blower amp draw. 14. Measured temperature differential,,,temperature differential was 17 degrees split differential, we believe if could also be cause
1. Visually inspected condenser coil for debris/ dirty. 2. Inspected condenser fan motor. 3. Inspected condenser fan blades. 4. Inspected/ cleaned wiring connections. 5. Tested compressor/ condenser fan motor capacitor. 6. Checked compressor amp draw. 7. Checked condenser fan motor amp draw. 8. Inspected / replaced return filter. 9. Inspected return plenum for debris/ dirty. 10. Inspected evaporator coil. 11. Inspected blower motor/ blower wheel. 12. Checked blower amp draw. 13. Measured temperature differential from supply to return. 17 degrees measured. 14. Inspected drain lines and treated to prevent blockages 15. Rinsed condenser unit to promote heat exchange High start amps. High start amps will put excessive wear on components. Customer plans to be out of house by November and is not looking to invest further in equipment.
I arrived to our clients concerns of airflow throughout the home. Upon arrival our clients had mentioned the outdoor unit had just shutdown and was not cooling properly. I proceeded to the outdoor equipment and found the capacitor to be low as well as the contactor to be past normal manufacture readings. I showed these to our clients and proceeded into the attic and found the water safety switch to be tripped. I disengaged the switch and the unit kicked on. I then proceeded to check the airflow and the ductwork throughout the home. The unit has air gaps at the supply box and old metal ductwork. There are no dampers in the supply box either and I cannot make adjustments to the airflow. I showed my findings to our clients and we discussed various airflow/ductwork repair options as well as mechanical repairs for the system. They elected to proceed with everything and financed the work through good leap. We are scheduled to preform the full home duct work job on Monday the 9th. I did in
Upon arrival, I found the evaporator coil leaking from the valve inside of the evaporator coil used for TXVs. I removed the cap and seen the core was loose. I tightened to core and replaced the cap with a flare cap. I charged the unit with 2 pounds of R410a. The system is now cooling. I am concerned about what caused the leak to occur and the potential of none condensables being in the system now. The system has a piston. It is now cooling with a good supply temperature and differential. I provided the customer with our maintenance brochure. The customer paid for the service and the H/W paid for the dispatch in full. It rained before I arrived and a little during.
Homeowner stated that the unit is leaking water inside the house( kitchen area under the supply vent and light fixture. Found some insulation inside the main drain line blocking proper water drain, we cleared it, got all water out of the emergency drain pan,,unit is up and running properly at this time. We replaced the return filter today.
Performed single system cooling maintenance. I checked amps, capacitor, filter, refrigerant temperature, cleanliness, drains, and safeties. The system is cooling mostly within specifications. The compressor is pulling just over the LRA rating of 79.0. It is pulling 81.2. This will wear down the compressor over time and result in compressor failure. The return cavity is cleaner than it was last time I as here. However, I still recommend that cleaning be performed on the return cavity.
Arrived to the unit not cooling properly. Our client stated he had a friend come over and remove a damaged door switch. Once removed the unit would not turn on. We proceeded outside and tested the electrical components. We did find the unit to have standing Freon pressure. The outdoor unit has a damaged contactor that may need to be replaced soon. It is currently working. We went back inside and diagnosed a failed thermostat sending the incorrect signal to the furnace. We created an estimate to replace the thermostat and received verbal authorization to replace it from James. Once replaced we proceed to turn on the equipment and test it. We found the blower motor to have high start amps to the excessive dust and debris collected on it. We removed some pieces of tape and trash from it. The client immediately noticed a difference in noise. The unit was cooling on departure.