According to Sheila, none of the units appear to be malfunctioning currently. After lengthy discussions over all of our previous trips for heating concerns, it seems like the majority of concerns are stemming from confusion regarding how to operate the systems. I.e. operating the remote controls and not turning the temperature down when the room is not in use. By turning the units off or down, the room will get cold at which point the heat pump has very little chance of warming the space back up to desired temperature in a timely manner. Heat pumps do not have the ability to warm up a cold room the way a gas furnace can. In cold weather, it is important to leave the temperature setting seemingly 'too high' (80⁰+) to keep the unit ramped up. The temperature sensor that drives system operation is inside the top of the indoor unit. A setting of 70⁰ will not allow for the entire room to reach desired temperature. The unit senses 70⁰ air around itself but cannot account for the en
Concern of 5 units not keeping the space warm. Checked both units on the store area roof. Both are running 160⁰ Vapor line temperatures with 38⁰ outdoor ambient. Checked units in question on the ground and all were running 160-170⁰ vapor line temperatures Found all 6 units on the ground for the south side of the building needed the outdoor coils and drain channels washed Strung together a bunch of garden hoses and washed all the units Advise setting temperatures to higher than normal settings to drive the compressors at higher speeds. The temperature sensor on the indoor units is inside the top of the unit. Air Temperature being sensed is much warmer than what is at ground level. For example, a 70⁰ setting will shut the unit off when the air at the ceiling is 70⁰ while the floor temperature may still be much colder. We will investigate if wall thermostats are available for these units. If they are, this will solve the issue described above. This will also simplify operation
Replace Mitsubishi OEM compressor on MUZ-FS18 heat pump
Stood unit back up. Compressor will not start. Line set also kinked, so even if the Compressor did run, we'd need to do a few hours worth of work to it. We are exploring all avenues, possibly replace compressor under warranty. Otherwise, we will quote a new Daikin mini split system equivalent to the Mitsubishi hyper heat that's there now.
Mini split outdoor unit laying on its back. I could have blown over from wind or it could have been vandalized. Ice on the edge of the roof line makes getting up impossible today We will need to return after it thaws and assess the damage to the unit Best case it just needs stood up, allow the Compressor oil to settle back to the bottom for 24hrs and see if it runs Worst case, the Compressor has failed as a result of laying on its back and trying to run. **this will require unit replacement**
1435 B Install new Trane OEM heat exchanger on RTU unit for 1435B South system Install replacement flame sensor and spark ignition electrode Run test heating and cooling modes to burn off heat exchanger Diagnose indoor thermostat for South system is 10° inaccurate on the indoor temperature display Install replacement Honeywell p200 programmable thermostat
Capacitors and drain repairs 1435 b N Turbo 200x 80 + 5 bad capacitor no cool Needs high voltage conduit liquid tight Replace drain trap S Needs high and low voltage repairs As bad heat exchanger gas is turned off 1435 a N No 10 UF cap Needs low voltage wire S 10uf capacitor Service disconnect bad 1445 Miscellaneous drain repairs on all five WxCE 024 20x25x2 - 1 Drain WxN 060 10uf cap 20x20x2 - 2 Drain WxCW o48 Drain Needs 18x20x2x - 2 35 + 7.5 capacitor 440 WxSw 048 Drain Turbo 200 35 + 7.5 Needs 2 18x20x2 WxSE 048 Turbo 200 35 + 7.5 Needs 2 - 18x20x2 Filter list for 1445 needs to be 2 - 20x20x2 6 - 18x20x2 1 - 20x25x2
5 system rooftop maintenance Water flush air coils, water flush condenser coils, replace all air filters, flush drains, drain pans, and drain traps Run test cooling mode, inspect all heat exchangers, inspect for any additional recommendations and safety concerns
Four system rooftop maintenance Water flush air coils, water flush condenser coils, replace all air filters, flush drains, drain pans, and drain traps Run test cooling mode, inspect all heat exchangers, inspect for any additional recommendations and safety concerns
Upon arrival the right side water furnace geothermal servicing the main level system was off at the thermostat but displaying a high pressure LED service code. When test ran the equipment turned on and operated normal as expected however the ground loop water pressure was very low at below 10 psi. Running refrigerant pressures appear to be normal even with low ground loop pressure but could be seriously affected with 100° outdoor temperature heat load while today is only 70°. During initial run testing and after repressurizing the ground loops the head pressure never ran above 360 PSI on two separate run tests with the second lasting 30 minutes plus. And producing 54° supply temperature New ground loop water pressure is 50 psi with one flow center and one ground loop servicing two split units Confirmed operation of both flow center pumps These systems are known to have failing high pressure switches due to vibrations and high pressure however they usually fail in an open electrical c
Install replacement blower motor and capacitor Install replacement blower control board Replace disconnect fuses Run test and confirm cooling mode
*Incomplete! Service disconnect is turned off* Southwest rooftop package system servicing the pharmacy corner of the building has experienced a high voltage electrical burnout/surge/unexplainable event that has blown out both 240 vac 30 amp service disconnect barrel fuses, the 5 amp 24vac fuse on the ignition control board, the ignition control board blower relay, and the blower motor itself has open windings.. After replacing the high voltage fuses the 240 power supply is stable including the high to low voltage transformer. The low voltage side is shorted to the high voltage internally in the ignition control board through the burned out blower relay. After attempting to permanently hotwire the blower motor with no success the windings have tested burned out in a open circuit condition Service disconnect fuses are in place (2 x HACR30) Blower motor with new capacitor needs installed Ignition control board needs installed Additional electrical testing may be required after the
Goosenecked the exhaust away from the intake. Windows in the vicinity do not open. Intake 45⁰ elbow is fine.
Status LED display on the control board flashes all of the information for current mode: heat percentage and airflow CFM, etc. No faults in the system. He's also complaining of the sound the furnace makes when it initially fires off the burners. Explained last trip (and reiterated today) that it is the expansion of the air inside the burner compartment the moment of gas ignition. This will be the last of the no cost trips.
Diagnosed with no heat in lobby 1 of 5 RTU systems Trane 2008 Found blower wheel stuck against the plastic housing Blower wheel is seized on the shaft. pulled the full blower assembly to adjust the depth of the motor bracket. Blower wheel is slightly out of balance but running good now System was running and at 68 set to 70 at arrival time today but would not start and was at 63 a couple days ago Remove flame sensor and spark electrodes for cleaning Inspect heat exchanger Inspect air filters. Inspect thermostat and batteries and test run multiple times for heat mode Unfortunately today I could not witness the broke down system. Several items needed attention but the no heat condition could not be positively identified System is running good set to 70 Air filters are very dirty Recommend regular maintenance on all RTU equipment